Відео

Very nice work. And very thorough explanation. Thank you!

This is the best intonation explanation I've seen. Thanks for showing all the trial and error attempts in finding a good way to shape the saddle. I just went through something similar in creating a shelf like that on a nut in order to intonate that. I used a couple of straight boards with sandpaper held against one of them to create a right angle as a sanding jig, with a spacer so that the nut rode above the vertical board enough to create the shelf. It took forever, and perhaps rigging up something similar with a file would be better. Holding the nut by hand was difficult and laborious. I think I would take a clue from your glueing idea but instead glue directly to a board with some hide glue (for easy reversibility). (BTW how do you feel about nut compensation?)

Hello Susan. Using water you were on kind of the right track with the wrong equipment. We have been doing this as a major part of our business for the past 24 years. Take a look at this video showing how we get the job done. You may get some ideas on some things you can do. ua-cam.com/video/uZh9HrW5Isg/v-deo.html Working outside is a good start. Try using a strong fan to blow that nasty and dangerous dust away from you as you work the shell. Glue the cutout sections to a small stick to help sanding to flat thickness without sanding fingers. Good luck.

OK, but what happens if you need to move the table. I mean, your adjustment is a one time only work, so it is pointless unless you do it every time you change table height. I would rather spend more money on a better drill press, or make a more permanent alignment, like in the center axis of the table. Perhaps a good cleaning would help. Anyway, it's a good idea to align the table...

Im restoring one of these right now! It sounds like yours is only playing the last two beats of each sequence for some of them, but I'm still glad this video is here so I can compare mine with yours!

Would you be able to drill access for the truss before gluing the head veneer?

Would dampening the veneer on the top help with the curling?

Hope you are well Susie? Loving the videos, but its been a long time since the last one. Hope all is well

Susan, I am pleased to be acquainted with your site/channel. I, too was a commercial carpenter (wood butcher) most of my career. I am not a very good student, but some of my teachers, professors, Masters had an innate ability to reach the way my mind works and the 'light bulb' came on. Most did not. You have that ability and I thank The Universe for it. I truly hope that whatever endevours (sic. for you Americans) you pursue, you continue to remember and utililise (sic.) Your gift. I have been a drummer all my life, but my grandfather, Ernest Montoya, tried to teach me guitar when I was ten years of age and gifted to me a cheap old guitar and when i moved away I messed around with it for a while but soon gave up and went back to my beloved drums. I am now, 53 years later, just learning the magic secrets of the guitar, and the mistake i made by giving up back then. Thank you for helping me understand things that my grandfather probably did not know, even though he was a precision machinist. Cheers!

I'm dealing with this issue with my blade flying off right now with my Scheppach, so glad I found this video. Thank you!

A bit of candle wax on the saw blade will help to avoid sticking.

Thank you Susan for the “engineer’s” explanation of side braces. I am about to do this for my current acoustic guitar build and your explanation really helped me. Haven’t heard from you for awhile. Miss you.

Shouldn't you have dried it before cutting it up?

Really nice job and will try the glue for some of my smaller projects..thanks for sharing.

Forget the clamp use tiewraps....

It’s so good to see luthiers measuring in universal metric scale.

You have to love all the violin critics on this thread. I wonder how many have ever even touched a violin.

need to work on your realism glass hasnt and never will blow out in huge chunks like that

missing you're expertise Susan,,,hope all is well

11:14 Has anyone tried cutting out the bone rough while the bone is green, and straightening it before/during the drying? I'm guessing no, because there is processing to do which would be awkward with the blank under tension/in a clamp. Just a thought. Awesome explanation, just what I was looking for. I have asked my local Butcher for some cow thighbone and will try to make a saddle from it.

Just to help with stickiness, why not have some solvent handy ( methylated Spirits or mineral turps in little dish or spray bottle) that's what I do,it has many uses,outdoor is best because of solvent ( ' take a tripp, never leave the house ') 😅😅

Thanks for the video 😊😊

Very interesting. I didn’t really know the meaning of Intersex. You are gorgeous!❤

Very helpful

There are over 600 other strads bing played upon. It is definitely worth sacrificing a few exeptionly well preserved examples for future study and appreciation. In 400 years all of the strads that we enjoy hearing today will be in pieces, only those few that are preserved will be able to be seen,and studied for future makers

Thanks so much for this video. I’ve just started my slide ‘journey’ too and first one I bought was that same Dunlop 212. It’s huge for both ring and pinky fingers but sits on the joint of my middle finger. One commenter mentions a Minnie Marks XS brass slide with an internal of 15.8 (barely much smaller) I’m relying on the fact that it tapers down even smaller (it’s ring size 4 - 6). EDIT: I just got a Minnie Marx XS brass slide and it is perfect for my smallest finger.

Absolutely love your innovative,inventive,lets give it a bash approach.Learned quite a bit and got inspired,thinking of silver bound bracelets,pendants,etc.Many thanks for sharing.Now subscribed.

Mechanical engineer here. A slide made of aluminium and plastic material exposed to steel fillings WILL wear very quickly, even if lubricated. It is a terrible design. Inept engineers happen anywhere, anytime...

The rubber tires are rubbish which Scheppach supplies; they already perish without having been used is my experience. So Susan don’t question your ability; it is Scheppach; the Scheppach rubber tire ran of the machine when new. Scheppach is a very poor overall supplier

Thank you Susan for your video; I have to admit that the Scheppach bandsaw (or PARKSIDE bandsaw made by Scheppach) is a very poor design and worthless piece of equipment. Their instruction manual and service are also far from professional. This is what you expect from a chinese company.

Thank you for this tutorial, I was betting the sound would be not so bright... good result.

Hi Susan we miss you! Ci manchi!!!

It needs to be played FFS not in a glass box

While I am delighted to see these gorgeous, rare instruments, I do not understand the decision to include a crappy, digital sample of string playing as a sound track as we view some of world's finest acoustic instruments. If you couldn't afford real string players, silence would have been preferable.

Over kill

As a journeyman layout metal fabricator, the "old fashioned has proven to be not only the most accurate, its also simple - Sometimes - most of the time - if it isnt broke - and its ptoven and reliable - there's no reason to complicate

Susan, for the most accurate intonation you should be comparing the 2nd fret to the 14th fret or the 1st fret to the 13th to remove the nut from the equation.

Think I’ll pass on that gizmo. Thanks

I like metal vs glass for me. If you like metal slide, go to the hardware store and go the the socket/wrench section. Try on any size you like , I use a 5/8 long drive socket on my pinky. You’ll get some funny looks while trying them on. I like a heavy slide and you can’t get more durable.

Like English is not my native language, can you confirm me a point please : at #8'14" you said that "a cent (graduation of the tuner in "cent", i imagine) is an 100th of a semi tone" . I understood well? you are sure of that value? thanks in advance. I was trying to evaluate the difference between tuning A4 in 432 and 440htz, comparing to a semi tone.. then those 8 cent on the tuner would be 1/12e of a semi tone..

Thanks for that video. That's an important point for any classical guitar player! Even if in your case here, you had to make an accuented ajustement, according to your saddle inclination after top natural deformation, and the beginner guitarist maybe will find the subjet complicated, most of the time it will be a a simple modification..! If nowadays, on a classical guitar, if we have a diapason/vibrating string length of 650mm on E1, and 651/652mm on E6, after that, more than that, i don't understand why 'we' let a guitarist playing without ajusting intonation, at least on G string (and a bit on B string), more the hand go higher on the neck, more you are teaching your ears getting used with bad tuned chords.. when those could sound so nicer! Please do that modification, that worth it so much! It should be done already from the factory for any guitar! whatever the price of a guitar is.. Checking with a good analogique tuner (100$ new, many years ago, but now 10/20$ 2nd hand for a Seiko st707 for exemple) at 12 fret, like you said G string was the wronger on all my classical guitars. And then a bit wrong for B2 and D4 strings. Those 3 contact points on the saddle have to go back. When we look for a classical already compensated saddle, that 's those same three modification that we mainly found. I 'm left hand, i have to do the modifiction by myself: I put the saddle contact point the closer of the hole on E6,A5, E1 strings, then on the middle off the top of saddle for the D4 and B2 strings , and then the closer of the string tie for G3 string (like putting it back from 2mm). Then, even playing only the fist Dm chord of the "Milonga" of Jorge Cardoso (that exemple, because it's not so high on the neck: crossfinger on V) , it sounds sooo much better!

El summum de todo esto es entonar la cejuela y la selleta y ya puestos fabricar los trastes de. Temperamento verdadero esos trastes compensados eso acabaría con la practica totalidad de los problemas inherentes a la escala imperfecta de la guitarra

Great to see how you measure it! I suppose the more it bends, the higher is its force and pressure? So it is important to have the rod's top and bottom vertically aligned, or it would affect the pressure it gives. I also wonder if bamboo or cane or reed would be more elastic than pine, as they are traditionally used for making bows.

Damn

Where are you Suzie? I hope you're well, and I miss you! Please let me know how you are! Your videos were instrumental (pun intended) in my guitar making aspirations.

That's for sharing. Can I have a update please as I'm thinking of buying one thanks

Thanks for sharing ..can u give me ur opinion now on the scroll saw as I'm thinking if buying oone

These instruments were built to be played. Not put on display. Let some great deserving players give life to these musical gems.

The phenomenon where the strings take time to settle in after being untensioned and then retensioned is due to what is called anelastic recovery. Nylon is a viscoelastic material - it stretches under tension due to a combination of elasticity and creep. Nylon has logarithmic creep, so its rate falls with time until it becomes negligible and the string remains in tune. When you untension the string, the elastic component of its stretch immediately recovers and over time, a significant fraction of the creep also recovers. Hence, when you retension the string, it will start to creep again and go out of tune. The longer you leave a string untensioned for, the greater the anelastic recovery - if you immediately retension a string, the effect is smaller than if you leave it for a few hours.

That was a sweet sound when you turned it on for the first time. Excelent work!